In August, the British Guild of Fine Food awarded its “Great Taste Awards” which include tea, of course. These are British awards, after al. The top four awards in the single-estate tea category were: Jasmine silver monkey by Lim Lam Thye; eHimefuukii back tea by Seto Cooperative Farm; Jastime tea, jasmine pearls by Canton Tea Company; and Lovers Leap FBOP by Robert Wilsoni’s Ceylon Teas. Java Republic House Blend by Java Republic won in the bagged tea, single estate tea category.
If the names lead to some confusion (what’s a silver monkey or a jasmine pear?), then it’s handy to have a god tea reference book on the shelves and one of the most comprehensive volumes available is The Story of Tea: A Cultural History and Drinking Guide, by Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss (Ten Speed Press, 2007).
The Heisses own a tea and specialty food store, Cooks Shop Here, located in Northampton, Massachusetts, but they frequently tour the world, sourcing the best teas for their shop. The information they’ve gathered on these trips and from other sources as well is contained in their book.
The Story of Tea opens with a brief history of tea, tracing its roots from China to Japan and on through Europe and America, including a quick glimpse at the Boston tea party.
The Terroir of Tea
Yet one of the book’s most fascinating sections talks about the “terroir” of tea. It’s the same terminology that’s often used to describe wine. Terroir is the French word for territory, and what it means with regard to tea is that it gives the tea a sense of place – the geographic location where it is grown. The soil that nourishes the tea bush, the climate that cools and warms it, the water that moistens it, the seasons that wrap around it all contribute to the taste and flavor of that particular type of tea. No other tea, grown in any other part of the world will taste exactly like the tea made from this particular bush.
Where tea grows is only part of the story, however. How and when the tea leaves are harvested completes the equation. “The foundation of artisan tea is the pluck,” write the authors. The highest quality of tea is always plucked by hand. Green tea, for example, is “usually plucked in the morning and then brought down the mountain in baskets or cloth or fiber pouches,” say the Heisses. The authors write about the six classes of leaf manufacture and the eight elements of tea production, and by the time this section ends, the reader is almost certain to gain a new appreciation for that morning, afternoon or evening pot of tea.
Tea Trail Circles Globe
From that point, the Heisses bring you along a tea trail that takes you through China, Taiwan, then on to Japan, Korea, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Vietnam, Thailand and India. It’s an informative trip that takes a look at noted teas grown in each of the various regions.
At this point, the authors launch into their Encyclopedia of Tea – a section of the book that could stand on its own. Tea enthusiasts will find a welcome synopsis of the world’s finest teas so the next time they shop for or find a new type of tea, they have only to turn to the encyclopedia section to learn about the tea’s region of growth, how it’s manufactured, the style of its leaves (open leaf, full bud set, etc.), its flavor, aroma, the color of its liquor and the proper way to brew it. Artisan, presentation or display teas – the sort of tea bud or leaf that opens like a flower in the cup – is discussed in a separate section.
Of course, the book also discusses tea culture, such as the Japanese Tea Ceremony, in some of the major tea areas of the world, and there is also a section on the health benefits of tea.
Cooking with Tea
Finally, there is a small section of recipes for those who want to cook with their tea. Clams in Sweet White Miso and Green Tea Broth, Pineapple Jewel Rice with Spicy Shrimp and Green Tea Pot de Crème are some of the recipes you’ll find here.
With so many tea shops and tea cafes springing up across the country, The Story of Tea is one of those resources that tea lovers will find themselves turning to time and time again. Tea may be one of the world’s oldest beverages, but in today’s modern world, its many delights are being discovered – or re-discovered – once again. The Story of Tea is certain to help lead those discoveries.
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